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Architecture, Art Nouveau, Caffè San Marco, Claudio Magris, Coffee Leaves, Interior Design, Jugendstil, Masks, Microcosms, Trieste, Vienna Secession
When I am planning an Art Nouveau trip abroad, I try to prepare myself as well as possible. I would hate to find out, after having returned home, that I missed the most beautiful building! And I always look-up the local bars and restaurants as they often still have their beautiful fin-de-siècle interiors.
Caffè San Marco in Trieste ís such a historical café; you can sit down there for hours, have a coffee with some delicious pastry and daydream about the 100-year-history of the place. After all, Trieste was at the time the most important port of the Austro-Hungarian empire, often referred to as Little Vienna of the Adriatic.
Most of the information I found about this café is in Italian; I couldn’t understand any of it. Fortunately though, I discovered that Claudio Magris wrote a book Microcosms about caffè San Marco (and some other café’s) and this book was translated in English!
So here’s what I pieced together…
On 3 January 1914, Marco Lovrinovich (1875-1969), who was originally from around Poreč, opened Caffè San Marco despite resistance put up by a consortium of Trieste café-owners who in an attempt to obstruct him had turned – in vain – to the Royal Imperial authorities. The café was located at the ground floor of Casa Napp at Via Battisti 18, a building designed by architect Giorgio Polli in 1902, and owned by insurance company Assicurazioni Generali since 1910. The L-shaped café was decorated in the floral style of the Vienna Secession, with fresco’s by Guido Marussig (1885-1972).
The café immediately became a meeting place for young students and intellectuals. But it wasn’t just that. It also hosted irredentist youth (the term irredentism is a derivative of Italia irredenta, a movement that wanted to unite all regions with an Italian speaking population, with Italy; Trieste was seen as the center of irredentism) and functioned as a laboratory for the production of false passports that enabled the flight of anti-Austrian patriots to Italy.
For these reasons, on 23 May 1915, a group of Austro-Hungarian soldiers penetrated the café, destroyed everything, and decreed permanent closure. Lovrinovich himself was brutally kicked, and later imprisoned at a punishmentcamp in Liebenau (near Graz) because he had deliberately caused himself a bacterial infection in both eyes. Reason being he didn’t want to serve in the Austro-Hungarian army and fight against Italy.
After the war, the café was restored and adorned with some new paintings. But other than that, the interior remains practically unchanged since it opened in 1914. Painted masks look down on us from high above the counter of black inlaid wood that is said to have come from the once renowned Cante workshop. In fact there are 36 theatrical mask paintings, all over the café, some of which are attributed to the Viennese painter Vito Timmel.
Also interesting are the nudes painted in the medallions on the walls. They’re accredited to illustrious artists, not always confirmed. Certainly to Napoleone Cozzi, a decorator, writer and mountaineer irredentist and possibly to Ugo Flumiani.
The nudes are said to be a metaphor of the rivers that flow from Friuli, from Istria and from Dalmatia, into the Adriatic Sea, and into the sea of San Marco.
Flumiani’s seascapes and lagoon paintings are bright; sand and mud, too,
gleam in the sparkle of the midday sun. (Microcosms, Claudio Magris)
Officially, Lovrinovich said he had named his caffè San Marco in his own honour, but as he took every opportunity to repeat the image of the Venetian lion, the irredentist Italian symbol, you might question his explanation. The symbol even recurs in the little marble tables with their cast-iron legs that flow into a pedestal sitting on a lion’s paws.
The Café, repeatedly restored in the past decades thanks to the generosity of Assicurazioni Generali, was reopened (again) on 16 June 1997 and continued to be as impressive as ever! The countless golden coffee leaves are a constant in the decoration, as are the 36 actors masks. Another consistent element is the intellectual clientele of the place. Over the years, the majestic café has built up an impressive list of regulars. In its heydays, it was frequented by writers like James Joyce, Italo Svevo, Rainer Maria Rilke, Scipio Slataper and the poet Umberto Saba. And in more recent years Trieste-born novelist and cultural philosopher Claudio Magris often works from the café.
But when the café’s manager Franco Filippi died in December 2012, owners Assicurazioni Generali (currently Italy’s largest insurance company, based in Trieste) had trouble finding a replacement, and for a while Caffè San Marco faced an uncertain future. Magris, amongst others, campaigned passionately for months and urged the owners to save this rendezvous for intellectuals and writers… and he succeeded! Saved from demolition in 2013, the café is now a vibrant cultural hub with beautifully restored decor, young staff and an in-cafe bookshop.
The hours flow… amiable, carefree, almost happy.
(Microcosms, Claudio Magris)
Caffè San Marco, Via Battisti 18 in Trieste, Italy
Sources
A Place in my Mind Blog in English
Book about Caffè San Marco in Italian
Caffè San Marco on Facebook
Il Caffè San Marco – Trieste Revista in Italian
Microcosms by Cladio Magris
The Guardian about Caffè San Marco in English
The Trieste of Magris in English
Website Caffè San Marco in Italian and English
Wiki-page of Caffè San Marco in Italian
Wiki-page of Caffè San Marco in English
Wiki-page of Caffè San Marco in German
About Art Nouveau 
Beautiful!!!
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Hi Stephan,
I agree, it’s just beautiful. Thank you for reading my blog;
I hope to hear from you again soon!
Olga
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I love this caffe, would love to sit there whole day, have coffee and read 🙂
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Hi Ishita,
I totally agree with you. This time, I was in Trieste only for one day, and I had so much on my ‘to-do-list’ that day; I just had a coffee and some cake. But if I had had more time, I would certainly sit down and read… for hours, in this café. It’s a lovely place. Thanks for stopping by and reading my blog!
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I love thew post of your blog and it brought me back fond memories 🙂 you are welcome and I hope you visit sooner than you know!
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Caffè San Marco has a particolar atmosphere… Next time, if you and your readers need, I can translate for you from italian to english. Happy new year to all art-nouveau lovers Barbara
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Dear Barbara,
Thank you for your offer! While we were at the café, the manager showed us a book about the café (in Italian) and I photographed a page I thought that might be interesting. I have included the page in the above photo-collage. If you have the time, could you just have a look at that page and let me know if there is anything that might be interesting to add to my story? Thanks a million!
Olga
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Dear Olga,
I summarize what is reported by the “Piccolo”.
The article reports the event of re-opening of the Café “San Marco” after renovation.
Important opportunity for all citizens of Trieste who attended numerous.
The owners (Peri and Plessi) had commissioned to Ugo Flumiani (artist, decorator, landscape architect), in particular, the expansion of the hall, the new game room, new lighting.
Everything with extensive use of gold.
Flumiani, to connect the name of the Café “San Marco” to the city of Venice, decided to make the medallions that represent the Carnival masks. All medallions and panels were embedded in a large band of gold leaves made by the firm Buri.
The lighting was made by the firm Padovan and the heating system by the firm Ruzzier & Fabbro
hope I have added some additional useful information
Barbara
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Dear Barbara, Thank you só much for al the details extra information! I am sure everyone will appreciate this. One question though: who are Peri and Plessi? Because I learned the building was owned by Assicurazioni Generali since 1910… and San Marco didn’t open before 1914… Can you explain?
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Il Sole 24 Ore
Il caffé San Marco di Trieste: cent’anni vissuti pericolosamente
di Alessandro Marzo Magno
10 April 2014
Ogni città asburgica degna di questo nome, aveva alcune caratteristiche imprescindibili: gli edifici pubblici color giallo Schönbrunn (cioè dipinti nella stessa tonalità della reggia estiva di Francesco Giuseppe), il profumo di gulasch che aleggiava nelle strade e i caffè. Tanti caffè, dove si potevano trascorrere ore e ore chiacchierando e leggendo giornali. Trieste, terza città d’Austria dopo Vienna e Praga, non faceva eccezione. Uno di questi caffè, il San Marco, tra i pochi sopravvissuti e l’unico rimasto intatto negli arredi e nelle decorazioni dai tempi degli Asburgo, compie ora cent’anni. Questa è la sua storia.
Proprio dai caffè rimane impressionato Marco Lovrinovich, ricco mercante di legname e vino, quando decide di trasferirsi a Trieste dalla natia Fontane d’Orsera, vicino a Parenzo, in Istria (oggi Poreč, in Croazia). È il 1901 e Lovrinovich pensa che potrebbe essere una buon investimento aprire un locale elegante dove ci si possa ritrovare a discutere. Gli altri gestori di caffè cercano però di ostacolarlo in tutti i modi e fanno in modo che non gli venga concessa la licenza per una nuova apertura. Deve perciò attendere che qualcuno rinunci in suo favore e ciò accade solo parecchi anni dopo, quando un commerciante gli cede la Latteria centrale Trifolium, affacciata su quella che allora si chiamava Corsia Stadion e oggi è via Cesare Battisti.
Una fede irredentista
C’è un altro particolare che non va trascurato: i caffè sono spesso ritrovo di persone che manifestano determinate idee politiche. Frequentare l’uno o l’altro caffè è un po’ come iscriversi all’uno o all’altro partito. Per esempio il non lontano caffè Eden (oggi cinema Ambasciatori), con il suo teatro annesso, è il ritrovo preferito degli ufficiali in forza alla vicina caserma sede del 97° imperiale e regio reggimento di fanteria. Lovrinovich non fa affatto mistero della sua fede irredentista. E infatti vuol chiamare il suo caffè San Marco. Le autorità austriache stupide non sono, e capiscono benissimo dove l’uomo voglia andare a parare. Il leone di San Marco, già simbolo della Serenissima repubblica di Venezia, viene in quegli anni utilizzato dagli irredentisti in chiave anti austriaca. Ma l’Austria è un paese strano e – ben lungi dall’essere la prigione dei popoli dipinta dalla propaganda avversa – tende a mostrarsi accomodante. Per esempio Trieste è la prima città in Europa a erigere un monumento al più italiano dei musicisti italiani, Giuseppe Verdi, nel 1906, a cinque anni dalla morte. Così Lovrinovich giustifica il nome che vuol dare al locale affermando che si tratta di un omaggio a suo padre che lo ha chiamato Marco. L’imperiale e regia luogotenenza, si può presumere di controvoglia, concede il nulla osta.
Stucchi tricolori
Il proprietario del caffè incarica della direzione dei lavori un irredentista come lui: Napoleone Cozzi, un personaggio eclettico, pittore e decoratore, alpinista e schermidore, che dà al San Marco un aspetto decisamente italiano. Gli stucchi delle volte – oggi color bronzo – nel 1914 sono invece sfacciatamente tricolori: sulle pareti bianche campeggiano i chicchi di caffè rossi, con le loro brave foglie verdi.
Il caffè apre i battenti nei primi mesi del 1914 diventando immediatamente, e non potrebbe essere altrimenti, il punto di ritrovo della gioventù irredentista di Trieste. Tra gli avventori si contano anche i giovani ebrei che frequentano la vicinissima sinagoga (costruita nel 1910, contende a quella di Budapest il primato del tempio ebraico più grande d’Europa). Poiché molti fra gli irredentisti sono ebrei (o molti ebrei sono irredentisti, se si preferisce), il cerchio si chiude.
A pochi mesi dall’apertura del caffè San Marco, accade però l’impensabile: il 28 giugno 1914 a Sarajevo viene assassinato l’erede al trono d’Austria-Ungheria, Francesco Ferdinando e un mese dopo l’Austria dichiara guerra alla Serbia. Subito interviene la Russia e i triestini del 97° reggimento partono per la Galizia. I giovani irredentisti che non vogliono prendere le armi per uno stato considerato loro nemico trovano nel retro del caffè la soluzione ai loro problemi: una stamperia clandestina li fornisce di passaporti falsi con i quali tagliare la corda.
Ma non passa nemmeno un anno e l’Italia rompe la Triplice Alleanza: il 24 maggio 1915 entra in guerra contro l’alleato del giorno prima. «Il re d’Italia mi ha dichiarato guerra. Un tradimento di cui la Storia non conosce uguale è stato commesso dal Regno d’Italia. Dopo un’alleanza durata oltre trent’anni l’Italia ci ha abbandonati nell’ora del pericolo per passare, a bandiera spiegata, nel campo nemico. Noi non abbiamo minacciato l’Italia», si legge sul proclama firmato da Francesco Giuseppe, fatto affiggere in città il 23 maggio.
L’incendio e l’arresto
La reazione è furibonda: la popolazione Kaisertreu (fedele all’imperatore) assalta i luoghi simbolo dell’irredentismo. Alle sette di sera vengono devastate e incendiate la redazione e la tipografia del quotidiano “Il Piccolo”. Poi bruciano i caffè Ai volti di Chiozza e il San Marco, la Lega nazionale e la Ginnastica triestina. Lovrinovich viene arrestato a Lubiana per sospetta attività spionistica a favore dell’Italia. Si è anche iniettato negli occhi il tracoma per non combattere contro i soldati italiani.
Al caffè San Marco non va poi tanto male: i pompieri riescono a domare l’incendio (mentre la popolazione infuriata taglia le manichette che dovrebbero spegnere le fiamme al “Piccolo” e la sede del giornale ne esce completamente distrutta).
Lovrinovich fa la fine di tanti irredentisti sudditi asburgici: internato in un campo. Finisce nella baracca di punizione dell’ospedale di Liebenau, nell’Alta Austria. Finita la guerra, passata Trieste all’Italia, nel 1919 il caffè San Marco riapre. Dopo tre anni, però, Lovrinovich lo cede ad Alberto e Ita Finzi, che rientravano da Roma dov’erano stati sfollati durante la guerra. Mentre tanti caffè, simbolo della mollezza asburgica, chiudono e vengono trasformati in negozi, banche e quant’altro, il San Marco prospera e diventa punto di riferimento della borghesia intellettuale e della comunità ebraica (il caffè e la sinagoga sono addossati l’uno all’altra, nel medesimo isolato). Ai tavoli del caffè si ritrovano i pittori triestini Argio Orell, Guido Grimani, Ugo Flumiani, nonché Vito Timmel, di origine viennese e di netta impronta secessionista. A quest’ultimo artista sono in genere attribuite molte delle opere presenti tutt’oggi nel caffè, ma con ogni probabilità le ha soltanto ispirate e non è intervenuto direttamente.
Nuovo cambio nel 1936: la gestione Peri-Pelosi mette mano alle decorazioni e i tralci verdi vengono ricoperti con foglie d’oro, un po’ perché ormai l’ostentazione bianco-rosso-verde ha perso il senso che aveva durante il periodo austriaco, un po’ perché ripristinare i vecchi colori costerebbe troppo. L’attuale color bronzo delle foglie è dovuto allo scurirsi dell’oro apposto in quell’anno.
Comincia l’era Stock
Nel 1938 il locale viene acquisito da Antonio Stock che lo gestisce fino al 1960. In quell’anno muore e gli subentrano le figlie, fino al 1987. Il caffè diventa il salotto di Trieste, si trovano ogni giorno giornali italiani, inglesi (dal 1945 al 1954 la città è sottoposta al Governo militare alleato) e tedeschi (buona parte della popolazione di allora ha frequentato le scuole nel periodo austriaco e parla correntemente tedesco). Dal 1914 il caffè è sede della Società scacchistica triestina e si continua a giocare a scacchi, così come a biliardo. Nel 1962 esce il film “Senilità”, di Mauro Bolognini, tratto dall’omonimo romanzo del triestino Italo Svevo. Numerose scene sono girate tra i tavoli del San Marco.
La rinascita come caffé letterario
Lo scrittore Giorgio Voghera elegge il San Marco a suo quartier generale, e la tradizione sarà continuata da Claudio Magris che non disdegna di scrivere nel locale. Lo frequentano anche Fulvio Tomizza e Stelio Mattioni, quest’ultimo lo descrive in “Il mondo di Celso” (1994).
Nel 1987 la gestione passa a una cooperativa che intende rilanciare il caffè, facendone un fulcro di vita sociale e per questo motivo nel 1988 promuove un restauro che ridà vita alle decorazioni ormai logore. Si susseguono vari gestioni sino a quella di Franco Filippi che dal 1997 al 2012 che riporta linfa al locale. Alla sua morte però il San Marco – proprietà delle Assicurazioni Generali – resta chiuso per vari mesi e si teme che non ritorni mai più in attività. Invece lo rileva una famiglia di ed commercianti editori triestini greci, Asterios Delithanassis e suo figlio Alexandros, che, nell’ottobre 2013, lo riaprono introducendovi una libreria e trasformandolo in caffè letterario.
Foto©APT Trieste/Crozzoli
Hi Olga,
Ettore e Emilio Plessi are referred as the owners (the newspaper article is on 2 September 1934) who undertook the modernization of the Café. Other not specified …
The good new is that I have found a useful explanation of the various owners/management in an article of the “Sole 24 Ore” dated April 10, 2014 – “The Cafè San Marco in Trieste: one hundred years living dangerously” written by Alessandro Marzo Magno
I have tried to translate it for you.
Each Habsburg city worthy of the name, had some essential characteristics: public buildings yellow Schönbrunn ( painted in the same shade of summer palace of Franz Joseph), the smell of goulash that hovered in the streets and cafes. Many cafes, where you could spend hours and hours chatting and reading newspapers. Trieste, third largest city of Austria after Vienna and Prague, was no an exception. One of these cafes, the San Marco, one of the few survivors and the only one left intact in its furnishings and decorations from the times of the Habsburgs, now celebrating a hundred years. This is his story.
Marco Lovrinovich, rich wood and wine merchant , was impressed by the coffee when he decided to move to Trieste from his native Fontane di Orsena, near Parenzo in Istria (now Porec, Croatia). It is 1901 and Lovrinovich think it might be a good investment to open an elegant place where you can find to discuss. The other Caffé owners hinder him in any way and make sure that it is not being granted the license for a new opening. It must therefore wait for someone to give up and that happens only several years later, when a trader sells the Trifolium Central Dairy, overlooking what was then called Corsia Stadion and today is via Cesare Battisti.
A faith irredentist
There is another detail that should not be overlooked: the Caffè is often a meeting place for people who experience certain political ideas. Attend one or the other Caffè is a little ‘ow to subscribe to one or another party. For example, not far Caffè Eden (now Cinema Ambasciatori), with its adjoining theater, is the favorite place of the officers living into the nearby barracks of imperial and royal 97th Infantry Regiment. Lovrinovich not makes any secret of his faith irredentist. And he wants to call his Caffè San Marco. The Austrian authorities are not stupid, and they understand very well where the man is going with this. The lion of San Marco, symbol of the Serenissima Republic of Venice, was used in those years by irredentist in an anti Austrian way. But Austria is a strange country, and – far from the prison of peoples painted by adverse propaganda – tends to show itself accommodating. For example, Trieste was the first city in Europe to erect a monument to the most Italian of Italian musicians, Giuseppe Verdi, in 1906, five years after his death. So Lovrinovich justifies the name that wanted to give to the local saying that it is a tribute to his father called Marco. The imperial and royal governorship, grant the permit.
Stucco tricolore
The Caffè owner gave the construction management to an irredentist like him: Napoleon Cozzi, an eclectic character, a painter and decorator, climber and fencer, giving the San Marco an Italian style. The stucco ceiling – today bronze – in 1914 were blatantly tricolor: white walls graced the red coffee beans, with their good green leaves.
The Caffè opens in early 1914, becoming immediately, and could not be otherwise, the meeting place of the youth irredentist of Trieste. Among the customers there were also young people who attended the nearby Jewish synagogue (built in 1910, contends that the primacy of the Budapest Jewish temple largest in Europe). Since many of the irredentist were Jews (or many Jews were irredentist, if you prefer), the circle was closed.
Caffè San Marco a Trieste
Few months after the opening of CAffèSan Marco, however, the unthinkable happens: June 28, 1914 in Sarajevo was assassinated the heir to the throne of Austria-Hungary, Franz Ferdinand and one month after Austria declared war on Serbia. Russia immediately intervened and Trieste the 97th regiment left for Galicia. Young irredentist who do not want to take up arms for a state considered their enemy found in the back of the coffee solution to their problems: a clandestine printing press that provided them fake passports with which expatriate.
But it didn’t pass a year and Italy breaks the Triplice Alleanza: May 24, 1915 entered the war against the ally of yesterday. “The King of Italy declared war on me. A betrayal of which history knows no equal has been committed by the Kingdom of Italy. After an alliance lasted over three decades Italy has abandoned us in the hour of danger to pass, flag explained, in the enemy camp. We have not threatened Italy, ‘reds the proclamation signed by Franz Joseph, put up in the city on May 23.
The fire and imprisonment
The reaction was furious: the population Kaisertreu (loyal to the emperor) assaults the landmarks of irredentism. At 7 p.m. they devastated and burned the preparation and printing of the newspaper “Il Piccolo”. Then burned the Caffè “Ai volti” of Chiozza and Caffè San Marco, the National League and Gymnastics of Trieste. Lovrinovich was arrested in Ljubljana on suspicion of espionage in favor of Italy. It is also injected into his eyes trachoma for not fighting against the Italian soldiers.
Caffè San Marco was not so bad: the fire brigade extinguished the fire (while the “Piccolo” and the headquarters of the newspaper were completely destroyed).
Lovrinovich made the end of many Habsburg irredentist subjects: internship in a field in Liebenau in Upper Austria. After the war, Trieste passed to Italy, in 1919 Caffè San Marco reopens. After three years, however, Lovrinovich transfered it to Alberto and Ita Finzi, caming from Rome where they had been displaced during the war. While many Caffè, symbol of Habsburg, closed and turned into shops, banks and so on, the San Marco became a landmark of the intellectual bourgeoisie and the Jewish community (the Caffè and the synagogue were placed against each other, in the same block). At Caffè tables were painters from Trieste like Argio Orell, Guido Grimani, Ugo Flumiani and Vito Timmel, from the Viennese Secession . To the latter artist are generally attributed many of the works still present in the Caffè, but he has only inspired them and didn’t intervene directly.
New change in 1936: the management Peri-Pelosi (HERE THEY ARE…) puts hand decorations and green shoots WEre covered with gold leaves, a little ‘because now the ostentation white-red-green has lost the sense that had during the Austrian period, a little ‘because it would cost too much to restore the old colors. The current bronze color of the leaves is due to darken gold affixed in that year.
Begins the era Stock
In 1938 the Caffè was purchased by Antonio Stock who ran it until 1960, and his daughters, until 1987. The Caffè became the living-room of Trieste, there were daily Italian, English (since 1945 in 1954 the city was subjected to the Allied Military Government) and German (most of the population attended Austrian schools and was fluent in German) newspaper. Since 1914 the Caffè houses the Company of chess of Trieste. In 1962 he Mauro Bolognini released the movie “Senilità”, based on the novel of Italo Svevo citizen of Trieste . Many scenes were shot between the tables of San Marco.
The rebirth as a literary café
The writer Giorgio Voghera elected the San Marco in his headquarters, and the tradition continued by Claudio Magris who was not ashamed to write into the local. It was frequented by Fulvio Tomizza and Stelio Mattioni, the latter describes it in “Mondo di Celso” (1994).
In 1987 the management changed to a cooperative that planned to relaunch the Caffè, making it a hub of social life and, for this reason in 1988 ,promotes a restoration that gave life to the threadbare decorations. Various management followed until that of Franco Filippi, who from 1997 to 2012, who gave back the old lymph. At his death, however, the San Marco – owned by Assicurazioni Generali – remained closed for several months and it was feared that never return in business.
Instead it was bought by a greek family of merchants and publishers living in Trieste, Asterios Delithanassis and his son Alexandros, who, in October 2013, reopened San Marco introducing a library and turning it into literary cafe.
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Hi Olga,
Ettore e Emilio Plessi are referred as the owners (the newspaper article is on 2 September 1934) who undertook the modernization of the Café. Other not specified …
The good new is that I have found a useful explanation of the various owners/management in an article of the “Sole 24 Ore” dated April 10, 2014 – “The Cafè San Marco in Trieste: one hundred years living dangerously” written by Alessandro Marzo Magno
See the previous e-mail
Barbara
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Wow Barbara, you did an excellent job! I would never have found out so many details in Italian! Thank you for all your hard work!
What I found most interesting was the information about the colours of the leaves on the walls. I would never have expected that! It must have been spectacular, specially in those days!
Thank you again Barbara, for your excellent research! 🙂
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Ja, Olga, weer erg mooi, & navenant dank. Maarrre …: *wanneer* ga je nou naar Trieste? En dan maar hopen dat er in Caffè San Marco wéér een flashmob is … En anders ook, veel plezier. Je schrijft één keer “iridentist En als ik dan toch mijn schoolmeester-petje op heb, het is niet “prepare myself as good as possible” maar … well … Groet, Frits
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Hallo Frits,
Ik was deze zomer in Trieste, de regio aan het verkennen. Trieste is een drukke stad, vol met toeristen. Goed te doen als dagtocht vanuit Slovenië of Noord-Italië.
De kans dat je de volgende keer een flashmob tegenkomt is inderdaad niet zo heel erg groot. De kans dat je de schrijver Magris tegenkomt is daarentegen wél levensgroot! Hij schijnt daar vaak met zijn laptop te zitten werken.
Ik heb de schrijf- en typefouten snel veranderd. Dank voor je oplettendheid.
Bedankt voor het lezen en tot de volgende keer!
Olga
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Stunning. We loved Trieste when we visited about 13-14 years ago, but I didn’t see this beauty
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Hi Poshbirdy,
That is exactly why I look things up before I get in the car or on a plane! Once you are there, you have no time to find out. You need all your time to look and feel (and smell and taste). I have downloaded a naviation app to my phone, and I mark all interesting sites on the map in that app. Once I arrive at the location, I use my app to navigate through town, from one flag to the next. Works for me!
Thank you for reading and taking the time to comment!
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Dear Olga,
if you will be back in Trieste, there is a wonderful exibition at Castello Miramare till 2018-01-07
http://www.castello-miramare.it/eng/eventi/news.php
IL LIBERTY e la rivoluzione europea delle arti.
Organized with the Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague
Best regards
Barbara
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Hi Barbara,
Thanks for the tip! I don’t think I will get there myself, but I added the exhibition to the AGENDA of the website, so others can see it too!
Have a nice weekend!
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